The problem is the VW doesn't get used much and the battery is always drained flat when she wants to use it. My daughter has a NOCO Boost Sport GB20 500 Amp for her VW Fox It works very well to the point where I bought my self a much bigger one for my Landrovers. Greetings Battery booster people - I have another question that is puzzling me: You just connect it up and leave it for a couple of mins to charge the car battery. It only delivers 80A or so into a car battery - but I've used it again & again and it's not let me down yet. Everything, apart from the Anderson is switched by a 100A SSR via the key switch. It has a small 300W Inverter, proper mains charger and a variety of useful outputs. Then I built my own with a much safer LiFePO4 20Ah Battery in an Ammo tin. The rest of it followed the magic box into the bin! It worked like that a couple of times, but more often let me down. Without the magic box, it was a lot more useful. The relay only closed if it thought it was connected to a battery & the voltage was higher than about 10V - presumably to stop you trying to see if it actually delivers 4000A in to a short circuit. It clearly also had a relay inside (which I doubt would have handled 4000A for more than a few uS). It had a buzzer and detected short or open circuits. It had a thing you plug in to the side which connected to the jump leads (with 10 sqmm cable) but it was potted so hard to figure out what was inside. Inside was a 16V LiPo battery, a low quality voltage regulated charger & cheap (78 Series) linear voltage regulators for 12V and 5V USB out. It claimed 2000A IIRC - but even with the leads shorted only managed 85A. I was given a (blue box) one - which turned out to be, err, well, less good than advertised! This would indicate that you get (more or less) what you pay for, a hard lesson for someone as notoriously 'tight' as I am! This performance is measured against about 8 Aldi or Lidl 'intelligent' chargers - that trickle charge the Land-Rovers, camper, and cars, at around £12 each they are cheaper than most/all the simple trickle chargers - but fail to rejuvenate, and more irritatingly if the mains fails they revert to standby. (I've ignored Lawnmower and literally dozens of Computer 'life expired' UPS 12V batteries) That is the third out of 6 'lost cause' Batteries that the CTEK has rejuvenated - 50% isn't bad - across a range of batteries: Leisure, compact car, Defender. I will say that I used my CTEK MXS 5 battery charger to 'renovate' the Fox battery - which it did - going from going flat in 24 hours, to 5 starts in 3 hours with less than 10 total metres of travel, having been left out in the snow for 5 days. Very impressive and I’m thinking they would be a great insurance product on solo trips.Įchoing that - very interesting Thanks to all the other contributors - My Daughter bought one a NOCO Boost Sport GB20 500 Amp to start her VW Fox (she initially bought a lead Acid Jump starter from CarEuroParts - but it never turned-up, consulted me and bought the NOCO- for twice as much - but its been brilliant immediate start from a completely dead battery - less than 2 volts) That’s helpful I’ve just borrowed my neighbours to jump start a 200tdi and it started instantly. "Īs you can see it can take 300Amps continuously but higher current for shorter period of times (before it would melt) "rated at 300 amps continuous, 600 amps for 20 seconds and 2400 amps for 1 seconds. resistance of the wire, insulation type and melting point, current ambient temperature, air flow around the cable, etc, etc.īut the big one in power packs is time the current is flowing for and it is expected that the current is flowing for a very short time to start a vehicle.Īnd they also tend to have a limited current generating capability (so what it does not say is that it can kick-out 4000 Amps for 0.01 of a second) before flat.įor example some electrical products have specifications like So this is affected by many factors, e.g. The current carrying capacity of a cable is mostly about heating effect caused by the resistance of the cable over time before the cable gets too hot for the insulation to melt and then the metal cable to melt. Some of them are advertised as being able to kick-out 4000 Amps, yet they have smaller diameter cables than the cheapest of Poundland jump leads?
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